Greece has always been a significant destination and a source of inspiration for multiple international fashion houses, with Grecian Chic a recurring presence on global runways. But what about the presence of Greek fashion houses, themselves? How can they establish and solidify a powerful Greek brand name on the world haute couture stage?
A Golden Era of Creativity
At the Athens 2004 Olympic Games, Icelandic singer Björk captivated audiences at the opening ceremony in a dress by the late Sophia Kokosalaki. The event sparked widespread acclaim for a designer who had so masterfully encapsulated the essence of Greek culture in a single creation.
Icelandic singer Bjork performs during the opening ceremony of the Athens 2004 Olympic Games August 13, 2004. The Games returned to their spiritual home on Friday with an opening that brought the myths of Ancient Greece back to life through the magic of 21st century technology. REUTERS/Adrees Latif
The latter half of the 2000s was a period of intense creativity for Greek fashion. This was a defining moment for the industry, a golden age marked by the establishment of Greece’s first organized Fashion Week.
Athens emerged as a fashion hub, bringing together creative forces from Greece and abroad, while attracting international journalists and retailers.
A Fashion Shift Amidst Economic Turmoil
This momentum would, however, be disrupted by the economic crisis (2009-2019) that gripped Greece, impacting the fashion industry as it did many other sectors. During these challenging years, the lack of state funding forced Greek fashion houses and designers to adapt in order to survive, with haute couture taking a backseat as mass production and prêt-à-porter became the focus. Establishing “Made in Greece” as a recognized global label proved far more difficult than anticipated.
In those stagnant times, Greek designers turned to their national heritage for inspiration, fueling the rise of resort wear collections. This strategic shift proved highly successful, as these collections’ global appeal was associated deep in the minds of international buyers with the Greek summer. This development not only sustained the Greek fashion sector during a decade-long economic downturn, it also solidified its distinct identity in the international arena.
Grecian Fashion’s Global Come-back
Fast-forwarding to the present. Driven by innately creative individuals with remarkable careers behind them, the Greek fashion industry is gaining increased global recognition. Celia Kritharioti, an Athens-based couture house with a legacy dating back to 1906, recently secured an exclusive presence at Harrods, showcasing a collection of ready-to-wear women’s apparel and footwear in one of the world’s most prestigious department stores. Designers such as Kritharioti—hailed by Vanity Fair as one of the world’s top haute couture designers—,Vrettos Vrettakos and Mary Katrantzou have made significant waves on the international fashion scene. Their designs have graced Hollywood red carpets, worn by celebrities including Khloe Kardashian, Beyoncé, Shakira, Jennifer Lopez, Michelle Obama, Jessica Alba, Taylor Swift and many more.
The Digital Rise of Emerging Local Designers
While Greek haute couture is experiencing a resurgence, with the breathtaking and eloquent collections of Kritharioti and Vrettakos standing out at fashion weeks in Paris, London and Milan, a new wave of emerging talent is also making its mark.
Leveraging new technologies and the power of social media, young designers in their twenties are reaching global audiences and promoting their brands in innovative ways. Eleni Kavvada, a promising Greek fashion designer, emphasized the transformative role of the internet in securing international exposure. Speaking to TO BHMA International edition, she noted, “I’ve connected with people from all round the world because of it, and I don’t know how I could have done that otherwise.” She added that without digital platforms, she would have had to travel frequently to showcase her work abroad, which is an unsustainable and costly endeavor for an emerging independent business.
Brand designs by Greek fashion designer Eleni Kavvada. Models @danai.lamp @eimaochris/ Agency @ s. a. d. mgt
Kavvada, who houses her innovative 240791 brand in Athens, also highlighted the logistical challenges of breaking into international markets. Reflecting on her experience presenting a collection at Paris Fashion Week two years ago, she described the difficulties involved in transporting her intricate and voluminous pieces by car. “It was an incredibly demanding process, but ultimately worthwhile,” she said. “I already have international visibility, and I hope my brand gains even greater recognition.”
A Call for Reform in Greece’s Fashion Scene
Having chosen the demanding path of haute couture, Kavvada underscored the pressing issues that Greek fashion designers face, particularly the need for systemic reforms within the industry. She called on the Hellenic Fashion Designers Association to address long-standing challenges, advocating for fresh ideas and solutions to push the sector forward. “We need an education system, more exposure, awards, and better media representation,” she asserted. “There is a lack of teamwork and community spirit, and, of course, there is a need for economic support from the government. If an independent designer is forced to compete under the same conditions as a Parisian fashion house backed by a powerful conglomerate, the challenge becomes insurmountable.”
Brand designs by Greek fashion designer Eleni Kavvada. Models @danai.lamp @eimaochris/ Agency @ s. a. d. mgt
Kavvada also stressed the necessity of a cultural shift in Greece’s perception of the fashion industry. “Fashion must be treated with respect, seriousness, and professionalism,” she remarked. “There has always been immense talent in Greece—not just in fashion, but across the arts. However, professionalism has been lacking. If we address this and evolve our approach, we can foster a revival of Greek fashion, under the right conditions.”
